The Castle of Santa Caterina

Located at a height of 310 meters on Mount Santa Caterina on the island of Favignana in Sicily, stands the fortress known as the "Castle of Santa Caterina". The majestic beauty of this structure overlooks the island and is also clearly visible from the mainland on clear days. A place of particular charm, the Santa Caterina manor dominates the sea and defies the winds from its height. When visiting the Egadi islands in Northwestern Sicily, a stop at the castle is a must to immerse oneself in the history that the castle tells with its centuries-old presence.

 

The history of the Castle of Santa Caterina

Everything that exists in Sicily from an architectural point of view has always been rich in events and happenings, because the dominations that followed have helped to make history, which can be felt by visitors in the various sites scattered throughout the Sicilian territory. What is now the Castle of Santa Caterina in Favignana was built on the remains of a watchtower from the 9th century. At that time, the Saracens dominated in Sicily and erected three watchtowers on the island. It is certain that one of them became the castle of S. Leonardo and the other was destroyed over the centuries.

At the beginning of the Early Middle Ages, at the behest of Ruggero I° d'Altavilla, Grand Count of Sicily, both of the first two watchtowers were expanded to become fortresses. In addition, Ruggero I° also had the fortress of S. Giacomo built on the island during the same period. Later, at the end of the nineteenth century, the Castle of S. Leonardo was demolished and rebuilt as a residence by the Florio family. During the Swabian domination, the Santa Caterina fortress was granted to Palmerio Abate, appointed governor of the castle. Abate was an important figure during the subsequent Angevin domination.

The Angevin family, dominating Sicily, imposed many taxes, and the abuses and violence against the population became increasingly frequent. From this historical-political and economic framework, the Sicilian Vespers against the Angevin hegemony began. In Favignana, it was precisely the governor of the Castle of S. Caterina, Abate, who led the revolt, at least according to what popular stories tell us. This would certainly have been a valid reason for Palmerio Abate and his heirs to be appointed "Lords of Favignana" once the Aragonese expelled the French from Sicily. During the 1400s, an heir of Abate, Andrea Riccio, rebuilt the fortresses of S. Caterina and S. Leonardo, thus contributing to fortify the island.

During the Bourbon period, the castle was a military garrison where opponents of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies were imprisoned. Later, the fortress was partly demolished and devastated by the rebels in 1860 after the landing of Garibaldi in Sicily.

The castle of Santa Caterina in Favignana takes its name from the church that the Normans had erected within its walls, but which has been lost over time. In the last century, the abandoned fortress served as a military base during the Anglo-American air raids of May 1943. After the war, the castle was requisitioned by the Navy and entrusted to a custodian, and since then only silence has guarded the hill of Mount S. Caterina.

 

Favignana and the Towers

There is almost nothing left of the castles-fortresses of Favignana that witnessed the passage of the Saracens and Normans, except for a few archaeological finds. However, the three towers are present in the coat of arms of the municipality of Favignana, towering over the flag with the figure of an eagle, symbolizing the history of a stronghold that dominates mountains and seas against any enemy.

 

The Structure of the Castle

The castle was built with the local limestone that is so characteristic of the island: tuff. The castle's plan is rectangular, with four towers delimiting the corners. Therefore, today, what remains of the castle gives a sense of the magnificence of when it was perfectly erected in all its parts. A small moat ran through the fortress, where a drawbridge was present in the main facade. The ground floor, carved into the rock of Mount S. Caterina, where the castle's dungeons were located, was used as a prison during the Bourbon era. The first floor of the building, being a fortress, was reserved for the soldiers' quarters of the garrison. It is topped by a terrace useful for surveillance, while the upper floor was instead intended for the officers' quarters. From some inscriptions on the walls, it is presumed that the castle was fortified by the Aragonese in 1616 and was still active as a fortress in 1655.

 

The Castle Today

Today, the castle does not fully convey the idea of what it was in the past. On the other hand, the coat of arms of the Aragon family, although present on the main facade, is no longer readable, the drawbridge has been replaced by a footbridge, and it is no longer possible to access the castle's dungeons. Therefore, the messages left on the walls by the prisoners have been lost in the folds of time. However, despite the site being neglected, anyone in Favignana should not miss visiting it, as the visit is free, and the view from the castle's height is spectacular!

 

How to Reach the Castle of Santa Caterina

To reach the top of Mount S. Caterina, you need to be prepared with suitable shoes and clothing, as the journey involves about an hour's walk. You can also get halfway by bike, car, or scooter. The road that leads to the castle begins behind the Florio Tonnara Museum, and it stops halfway, becoming a path, with access to the castle via steps. Once at the top of the castle, you can admire the beauty of the North-Western Sicilian coast, surrounded by stones that tell the story of its past. In fact, you can see the cities of Trapani, Marsala, Erice, as well as the other Egadi islands: Levanzo and Marettimo, along with the islet of Formica and the rock of Maraone. The charm of the mountain and the castle on its summit pervades every visitor who arrives in Favignana. On cloudy days, the castle appears as if it came out of a Gothic tale, so enveloped by mist or clouds. In spring, the path offers many emotions among the scents of typical Mediterranean vegetation and the gifts that nature offers on the path: asparagus and capers. It is advisable to visit during the coolest hours of the day and with caution, especially when climbing the steps and not leaning excessively out of the castle's loopholes. After all, it is a place where only eagles can dare!