The Stony Beaches And The Sunset Of The Faraglione

Levanzo is really small, not even six square kilometers of wild rocks and Mediterranean vegetation that culminate in the 270 meters of Pizzo Monaco. There are no roads (except for a short stretch of pavement that extends west from the harbor for a short distance), but only dirt trails, along which one travels on foot, accompanied in summer by the chirping of cicadas and the lapping of the waves of the sea. Which destinations? Capo Grosso and the abandoned lighthouse, crossing the entire island, among low and fragrant Mediterranean vegetation; and Cala Tramontana, which with its rocky seabed is ideal for those who want to do some snorkeling. Cala Fredda and Cala Minnola, the closest to the town, with pebble beaches bordered by pines and transparent sea (along this itinerary you will come across old Florio warehouses and their old farmhouse, now privately owned); the Faraglione, where you can admire one of the most beautiful sunsets of the Egadi Islands.

Sports enthusiasts can travel the path up to this point with a mountain bike, and as a reward, they can rest on what is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the archipelago (and beyond), with white pebbles, transparent sea and a view on one side of Favignana, on the other of Marettimo. Despite being so small, Levanzo has significant archaeological importance, thanks to the presence of the Grotta del Genovese, considered one of the most important prehistoric sites in the Mediterranean. In this natural cave overlooking the sea, prehistoric graffiti and paintings were accidentally discovered in 1949. The cave, in fact, is divided into an entrance cave, which was already well known, and a smaller one, reached through a narrow tunnel, where figures of animals (oxen, horses, but also deer and tuna) and humans have been painted and engraved, which archaeologists date back to between 10,000 and 7,000 years ago, hypothesizing that the cave could have been a kind of sanctuary. The cave, which overlooks a cove about thirty meters high, can be reached by boat, on foot, or with the caretaker's jeep, and can be visited every day, by booking a guided tour (for information and contacts: www.grottadelgenovese.it). In Levanzo, the ancient Phorbantia, there are just over two hundred people, all in white and squared houses gathered around the harbor. There are no discos or lounge bars, no nightlife. Those who choose this island do so to be quiet, and even if there may be a bit of crowding in July and August, especially due to the tourists who come for a short stop, this little island is not an international destination but, on the contrary, is to be preferred for a restful holiday. Days are spent at the beach, also to be experienced from a boat, which can be easily rented at the harbor, with or without a skipper. In the evening, then, you can meet on the terrace of the bar above the harbor to watch the lights of Favignana and Trapani sparkling in the dark, with an ice cream, a granita, or maybe a "cabbucio," a soft focaccia stuffed "alla levanzara" with tuna and tomato.

Those who enjoy scuba diving around Levanzo have the opportunity to see two underwater archaeological sites. At Cala Minnola, at a depth of 25 meters, there are dozens of Roman amphorae, transported by a ship that sank in the 1st century, while at Capo Grosso, Roman ships were anchored on March 10, 241 BC, getting ready for the Battle of the Aegadian Islands. To save time, the anchors were not brought on board, but the ropes were cut, so now they lie on the bottom. For environmental interest, diving near the Faraglione is recommended, preferably in the late afternoon to be able to admire, once resurfaced, the spectacle of the sunset over Marettimo.

 

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    Maria Cristina Castellucci
    Le Guide di Repubblica - Trapani e La Sicilia Occidentale